British Fashion Awards 2020 Winners

“Who is leading change in fashion?” asked the British Fashion Council ahead of the 2020 Fashion Awards, which premiered on Thursday Dec. 3 in a short film on the BFC’s Youtube channel — where 20 individuals and brands were recognized for leading positive change in the fashion industry during a very unpredictable year.

Instead of the usual focus on best designer, the BFC started fresh with four new categories of awardees: environment, people, community, and creativity. “From those who bravely faced this challenging year with pro-active responses to the global pandemic, showed leadership and creative resilience over the past year, to the ones who stood up against prejudice within the fashion industry and fight for change,” said the BFC in a press statement. Ahead, are the winners . . .

Community

Emergency Design Network
Launched by Phoebe English, Bethany Williams, Holly Fulton, and Cozette McCreery, “harnessed the power of London’s fashion community. Galvanizing industry experts to produce 50,000 surgical gowns and 10,000 sets of scrubs for British health workers.”

Michael Halpern
“During the Covid-19 lockdown, rather than stage a show for London Fashion Week, Michael paid tribute to the frontline workers. He captured eight women from across the public service sectors in film and portraits, reflecting on their work, sparking joy and hope.”

Chanel
“Chanel uses its influence to create positive change. Through the work of foundation Chanel, it is committed to improving the economic and social conditions of women worldwide. It has developed a racial justice fund to support grassroots organizations led by people of color.”

Kenneth Ize
“Dedicated to preserving African craft and heritage through a community of weavers, artisans, and design groups placing Nigerian cultural heritage on a global stage.”

A Sai
“Actively standing against injustice to make fashion inclusive and kind. A Sai Ta uses his voice to offer an end to discrimination against marginalized communities and committing profits to organizations that support the end of systemic discriminations and racism.”

People

Edward Enninful
“As editor of British Vogue, he is an agent of change, holding a mirror up to the industry.”

Lindsay Peoples Wagner and Sandrine Charles of Black In Fashion Council
“In June 2020, Lindsay, editor of Teen Vogue, and Sandrine, PR executive, launched the Black In Fashion Council whose aim is to set a new foundation for diversity, inclusion, and accountability to the fashion industry.”

Samuel Ross
“A part of a new generation of menswear designers. His brand, A-Cold-Wall* has a big impact on the communities that he works with. His Black Lives Matter financial aid scheme pledges money to organizations and people on the front line. He gave thousands of dollars to businesses with Black owners across a diverse range of areas.”

Aurora James
“This year, Aurora James spearheaded a pioneering campaign calling on retailers to dedicate 15 percent of their shelf space to Black-owned brands. This, along with her community of communities and artisans through her brand Brother Vellies, makes her a trailblazer.”

Priya Ahluwalia
“A progressive-thinking leader and agent

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British Fashion Awards: move online heralds different set of priorities | Fashion

The British Fashion Awards is typically an evening of turbo-charged air-kissing, wildly expensive party dresses and extended acceptance speeches from tearful models.

This is, of course, a very different kind of year, and Thursday night’s awards, which took place online, reflected a drastically different set of priorities.

Instead of the usual categories of fashion icon and brand of the year, 20 designers were recognised for making positive changes in the industry, with kudos going to those who had produced personal protective equipment (PPE), celebrated frontline workers and campaigned for inclusivity.

It comes amid a punishing year for the fashion industry, with profits declining by 90%, according to a McKinsey and the Business of Fashion report released on Wednesday.

It is also a year in which systemic racism within fashion was laid bare by the Black Lives Matter movement. “The fashion industry is one of the most vibrant in the world but with that platform comes responsibility,” said Lewis Hamilton, who presented a section of the awards. In a segment filmed some weeks ago, the racing driver, now isolating after a positive Covid test, said: “It is no longer enough for the fashion industry to set trends. It needs to set more important trends of creating a more equal and representative society.”

Edward Enninful received an award for pushing change through the pages of Vogue. The campaigner Aurora James was recognised for her initiative, 15 Percent Pledge, which urges retailers to commit to dedicating 15% of shelf space to black-owned businesses. Lindsay Peoples Wagner and Sandrine Charles also won awards for setting up the inclusivity coalition Black in Fashion Council.

Other winners included Michael Halpern, who made PPE for the Royal Brompton hospital and gave frontline workers a starring role as models in his London fashion week presentation, and the Emergency Designer Network, which was set up in April and has helped create 50,000 surgical gowns and 10,000 sets of scrubs for health workers.

Designers including Stella McCartney and Anya Hindmarch received awards for their work in sustainability.

The actor Maisie Williams presented those awards and asked viewers to “understand that we are all part of the problem”, while the campaigner Aja Barber urged the industry to note that “we don’t have much time yet, so it’s time to make hard choices”.

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It Involves The British Royal Family

Few events have captured the world’s attention like one wedding in 1981. With a global television audience of 750 million in over 70 countries, Princess Diana and Prince Charles had a wedding for the ages and widely regarded as the most expensive wedding in history.

The “wedding of the century” came with the hefty price tag of $48 million. Adjusted for inflation in December 2020, the ceremony is estimated to have cost about $137 million.

Most of the exact wedding expenses were not disclosed, but the dress reportedly cost as much as $150,000 which equates to $429,683. A backup dress was also created in case the garment was exposed to the press. 

In addition, the royal couple ran up the budget with 27 cakes. The couple’s main wedding cake was 5-feet tall and took 14 weeks to complete. A duplicate cake was also made in case of any mishaps. 

The wedding was held at St Paul’s Cathedral in London and was viewed by 2 million people.

One of the wedding’s main expenses was security. As 60,000 people flooded the streets of London to see the carriage procession around 5,000 police were deployed and tasked with crowd control. Security for the wedding cost the couple $600,000 which equates to $1.7 million. 

Princess Diana Pictured: Princess Diana return to Buckingham Palace by carriage after their wedding, 29th July 1981. She wears a wedding dress by David and Elizabeth Emmanuel and the Spencer family tiara. Photo: Getty Images/Terry Fincher/Princess Diana Archive

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Report condemns UK over British women and children held in Syria

British women and children captured after the collapse of the Islamic State in Syria are being held in “barbaric” conditions and deprived in a “systematic way” of their UK citizenship, according to a report on their conditions.



a man sitting in a tent: Photograph: Delil Souleiman/AFP/Getty Images


© Provided by The Guardian
Photograph: Delil Souleiman/AFP/Getty Images

As many as 35 British children and 15 British women are detained by Kurdish forces in two camps, al-Hol and al-Roj, along with thousands of children and women from Syria and around the world. It is Europe’s equivalent of the Guantánamo Bay detention centre, the report says.

The investigation by the London-based Rights and Security International charity says British intelligence officials regularly enter the camps. Once individuals are identified, it is alleged, their UK citizenship is usually swiftly withdrawn.

The report is published the day after the lawyers for Shamima Begum appealed to the supreme court for an opportunity for her to participate in a legal challenge over the removal of her British citizenship.

Conditions inside the camps, according to the study, are “fundamentally unsafe” and amount to “cruel, inhumane and degrading treatment” – a breach of human rights. The organisation sent a researcher into the camps earlier this year.

On average, 25 detainees a month have been dying at al-Hol, it is alleged, with children living in tents and suffering from malnutrition, dehydration and hypothermia. Some have died from burns when tents caught fire or been killed in fights.

Guards are said to have shot detainees, sexually abused others and are ordered to forcibly remove boys from their mothers when they reach the age of 10.

“The camps in which they are being held are fundamentally unsafe environments in which physical violence is common, the conditions are barbaric, and psychological trauma is rife,” the report states.

It adds that women are placed in solitary confinement for months for alleged involvement in unrest or for possessing mobile phones. Last year, a child was reported to have been shot and killed when a stone he was playing with hit a camp guard.

The study urges European countries to fulfil their “legal, political and moral responsibilities and immediately repatriate their citizens”.

Documents, which have been released as part of the Begum case, show the UK regards women in the camps who travelled out from Britain as a national security risk and does not want them to return home. According to a summary of the case against Begum, the Home Office believes “there are no substantial grounds” to think that the 21-year-old faced “a real risk of mistreatment” during her detention detained in Syria.

The two camps are run by the Kurdish Autonomous Administration of North and East Syria, Europe’s ally against I in north-east Syria. A few detainees are said to have been repatriated, including some “British children who were repatriated in November 2019 and in September 2020”.



a man sitting on the ground: Women captured after the fall of Islamic State in Syrian outside tents at al-Hol camp.


© Photograph: Delil Souleiman/AFP/Getty Images
Women captured after the fall of Islamic State in Syrian outside tents at al-Hol camp.

Yasmine Ahmed, the executive director of Rights &

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COVID-19 puts British women at ‘crossroads’ on workplace equality

LONDON (Thomson Reuters Foundation) – British women are at a “coronavirus crossroads” in the fight for workplace equality as COVID-19 threatens to reverse decades of progress while also causing a dramatic shift in working culture that could help them thrive, a report said on Friday.

The government should lock in the positive changes with a law requiring almost all jobs to allow flexible working, said the report issued on Britain’s Equal Pay Day – the date on which the gender pay gap means women effectively start working for free until year-end.

“Throughout the last century, crises comparable to the pandemic have been forks in the path of history,” said Sam Smethers, chief executive of the Fawcett Society, a leading women’s rights group which issued the report.

“The coronavirus crisis puts us at a crossroads again, and it is clear that this applies to the gender pay gap.”

COVID-19 has disproportionately hit women’s careers, with studies finding they are more likely to work in sectors badly impacted by the pandemic and are picking up a heavier load of unpaid childcare and chores than men.

Britain’s gender gap in hourly pay narrowed to 11.5% in 2020 from 13.1% in 2019, according to the latest data, though the Fawcett Society said the figures did not reflect the fact that many women had cut their hours to do childcare during lockdown.

While the pandemic poses serious threats to women’s workplace equality, the dramatic rise in home-working and flexible arrangements could benefit mothers who often struggle to combine work and childcare, Friday’s report said.

There are also signs of progress in data showing that fathers doubled the amount of time they spent doing childcare under lockdown, it said, though women were still doing more.

However, the report warned that women would only benefit if the government took steps to cement in the positive changes and protect female workers from discrimination.

The Young Women’s Trust, a feminist organisation, also called for action in response to the pandemic, including launching a state jobs and training programme for young women and requiring employers to publish redundancy data by gender.

Women’s rights group Equality Now backed the calls for change, adding that Black and other ethnic minority women were also being hard hit by the pandemic’s economic fallout.

“COVID has shone a spotlight on equality disparities,” said Alexandra Patsalides, a lawyer at the group.

“Now is the time for the government, policymakers, and employers to truly revolutionise their policies and mechanisms so as to ensure greater opportunities and support to women from all backgrounds.”

Reporting by Sonia Elks @soniaelks; Editing by Helen Popper. Please credit the Thomson Reuters Foundation, the charitable arm of Thomson Reuters, that covers the lives of people around the world who struggle to live freely or fairly. Visit news.trust.org

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Virginia Chadwyck-Healey on the British brand with jolly accessories you never knew you needed

Apple placemat, £22; Pyjamas, £135; Wost Blouse, £142; Crab placemat, £38, all from The Jacksons

I particularly loved this cable knit jumper by Quinton & Chadwick. I had never even heard of this brand before researching this piece. This is why I love my job. That and the fact I was totally unaware, before writing this column, that I needed (or in fact wanted) a dachshund jute bag in my life (now I’m dropping hints to my husband) or that I’d want to decorate our lockdown dinner table with loud, bright mats in the shape of rainbows and lobsters. But “due to Covid”, it is just this kind of adornment that will breathe energy into our evenings, in place of friends’ laughter and red wine flowing. Actually the red wine will still flow, but the table will come to life thanks to The Jacksons, rather than our much-missed friends and family.

We’ve all learnt from Lockdown Part 1 that we have to continue to make an effort to dress, to exercise, to eat healthily, to differentiate between week and weekend, so Lockdown Part 2 should hopefully see us all spend more time cooking, laying the table, lighting candles – all those things we extinguish from our mealtimes in favour of Netflix and supper on our laps.

If you are wondering how I came across The Jacksons, it is a most apt story. “Due to Covid”, a long-lost friend and her family made the decision to leave London and move to the country. Where did she end up? In our village. Where do her boys go to school? The very same school as my children. We met up for a coffee to discover where life had taken us in the past 10 years. She told me about “this brand she goes out to Bangladesh to help”. I took a look at said brand out of pure inquisitiveness and… here it is in today’s column. You see, every cloud… even a very large, grey Covid cloud.

Ginnie’s favourites this week…

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British Fashion Designer Richard James’s Mayfair Penthouse

LISTING OF THE DAY

Location: Mayfair, London

Price: £2.5 million (US$3.26 million)

This duplex penthouse that sits atop a converted modern office building in stylish Mayfair has been the home of celebrity fashion designer Richard James for the last 15 years.

The five-story Pollen Street apartment building has just eight units, including Mr. James’s two-bedroom penthouse on the fourth and fifth floors.

Mr. James, a Savile Row tailor whose celebrity clients include Elton John, Prince William, David Beckham, Daniel Craig and George Clooney, is known for his slim and modern tailoring and bold use of color and pattern, according to published reports. In 2018, he was made an OBE (Order of the British Empire) by HM The Queen for services to fashion, and that year, the brand opened its first New York store on Park Avenue.

More: One of London’s Oldest Homes—Which Hosted Benjamin Franklin—Asks £2.5 Million

Mr. James “purchased the penthouse as a brand-new property” in 2005, listing agent Robert Britten said. “It is one of the most stylish contemporary apartments in Mayfair.”

It is also just a few minutes walk from the apartment to the Richard James contemporary menswear store on nearby Savile Row.

The open-plan penthouse has “wonderful floor-to-ceiling windows which fill the living spaces with light and provide a fantastic bright and airy ambience,” Mr. Britten said.

The apartment is arranged with the timber-floored reception room, the entertaining areas and the open kitchen on the upper level, with the two bedrooms on the lower floor. There is a 125-square-foot wraparound terrace on the upper level and a balcony on the lower floor.

More: Final Penthouse at London’s Islington Square Development Lists for £4.3 Million

The 27-foot-long dual-aspect reception room offers rooftop views over Mayfair, Mr. Britten said. It features three sets of double doors that open onto the terrace, which borders the entire living space, he said.

The custom kitchen is “lined with silvery-gray units and white limestone worktops,” he said.

On the lower floor, the penthouse has a large principal bedroom suite with a walk-in wardrobe and a second bedroom with a west-facing private balcony.

Stats 



The 1,199-square-foot penthouse has two bedrooms and two full bathrooms.

From Penta:David Hockney’s Landscape ‘Nichols Canyon’ Could Fetch $35 Million

Amenities

Along with the terrace and the balcony, amenities and design details include floor-to-ceiling Crittall steel-frame windows on both levels that bring in bright, natural light; a vaulted skylight in the kitchen; a luxurious limestone-clad main bathroom; under-floor heating; mood lighting; white plastered walls and built-in storage units.

Neighborhood Notes

Pollen Street is a “quiet pedestrian street lined with cafes and shops and is dominated by elegant historic Victorian and Edwardian buildings, which are either commercial or have apartments on the upper floors,” Mr. Britten said.

The Mayfair neighborhood has many chic clothing stores and high-profile restaurants, including Sketch, Sartoria and Cecconi’s Mayfair, he said.

More: London Sees Increase in High-End Home Sales Despite the Pandemic

Agent: Robert Britten, Dexters (Mayfair office)

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Prince Charles discusses fashion in British Vogue

  • Prince Charles, 71, discusses fashion in the December issue of British Vogue
  • Admitted he pays attention to ‘detail and colour combinations’ when dressing  
  • Bemoaned the rise of ‘throw-away fashion’ and said people should repair instead
  • Daughter-in-law the Duchess of Sussex guest edited an issue of British Vogue

Most often seen in a tailored suit and sensible shirt, Prince Charles hardly has the most fashion-forward royal wardrobe. 

But that doesn’t mean the heir to the throne, 71, is indifferent about what he wears.

In an interview for British Vogue, Charles revealed he pays attention to ‘detail and colour combinations’. He also bemoaned the rise of fast fashion, saying he prefers to repair his clothes and shows rather than buy new. 

The interview, published in the December issue, is accompanied by a new photo of Charles surrounded by beautiful pink hydrangea shrubs.

In the pink! Charles is interviewed in the December issue of British Vogue. The story is accompanied by a new photo of Charles surrounded by beautiful pink hydrangea shrubs

It was taken by fashion photographer Nick Knight, who previously photographed Charles and the Queen for Her Majesty’s official 90th birthday portrait. 

Asked by editor-in-chief Edward Enninful, a friend of the Duchess of Sussex, where his ‘sense of style’ comes from, Charles replied: ‘I thought I was like a stopped clock – I’m right twice every 24 hours. But… I’m very glad you think it has style. I mind about detail and colour combinations.’

He added: ‘I happen to be one of those people who’d get shoes – or any item of clothing – repaired if I can, rather than just throw it away.’ The royal is known for re-wearing his favourite coats and suits over a number of decades.

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Prince Charles said the ‘British fashion textile sector is of enormous importance’ but that he believes there are ‘huge’ opportunities for designers and manufacturers to invest in sustainable fashion and focus on ‘repair, maintenance and reuse’.

‘It seems to me there are huge opportunities, particularly now, within the whole sustainable fashion sector, to counter this extraordinary trend of throw-away clothing or throw-away everything, frankly,’ he said. 

Charles revealed how he has tried to start a ‘thrift market’ at his educational centre Dumfries House, where things could be brought to be mended.

Eye for fashion: Charles revealed he pays attention to ‘detail and colour combinations’ of his clothes. Pictured, the prince shows off a number of patterns in an outfit worn last month

He added: ‘When I was a child, we used to take our shoes down to the cobbler in Scotland and would watch with fascination as he ripped the soles off and then put new soles on.’

Students from the Modern Artisan Project – a fashion training programme co-founded by the Prince’s Foundation – are about to launch a clothing collection with commercially viable sustainability at its core. 

The prince said many of the students trained in high-end fashion and sewing skills by the

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Two British women subjected to Qatar strip-search ordeal, UK confirms

Two British women were among a group of travellers subjected to compulsory intimate medical examinations while flying through Qatar in early October, UK authorities have confirmed.



a large passenger jet flying through the air on a cloudy day: Photograph: Matt Rourke/AP


© Provided by The Guardian
Photograph: Matt Rourke/AP

British diplomats have formally complained to Qatari authorities and Qatar Airways about the strip-search examinations, described as “absolutely terrifying”, and sought assurances they will not be repeated.

Women caught up in the forced checks have described being asked to disembark from their flights in Doha without explanation and led through the airport to underground areas where they were told to get into waiting ambulances. Inside they were told to remove their underwear so a female medical professional could examine them to see if they had recently given birth.



a large passenger jet flying through a cloudy sky: UK diplomats have formally complained to Qatari authorities and Qatar Airways about the strip-search examinations.


© Photograph: Matt Rourke/AP
UK diplomats have formally complained to Qatari authorities and Qatar Airways about the strip-search examinations.

Related: ‘I was absolutely terrified’: Australian witness recounts Qatar strip-search ordeal

The government of Qatar said on Wednesday that the “urgently decided” search was prompted by the discovery of a newborn baby placed into a rubbish bin. The child is alive and in the care of authorities. Qatar said it regretted any distress caused.

“We are providing ongoing support to two British women following an incident in Doha,” a spokesperson for the Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office said in a statement. “We have formally expressed our concern with the Qatari authorities and Qatar Airways and are seeking assurances an unacceptable incident like this cannot happen again.”

The Australian government confirmed earlier this week that 18 women on a flight from Doha to Sydney had been subjected to the compulsory medical examination, including 13 Australian citizens and five people of other nationalities.

Passengers from 10 flights leaving Doha on the evening of 2 October were affected, Australian officials said. It is not clear if the British women were on the flight to Sydney or one of the other planes that were targeted.

The incident has become a major scandal in Australia where the government has denounced the treatment of female passengers as “unacceptable”.

“The advice that has been provided indicates that the treatment of the women concerned was offensive, grossly inappropriate, and beyond circumstances in which the women could give free and informed consent,” a spokeswoman from the office of the foreign affairs minister, Marise Payne, said this week.

The government is under growing pressure to strengthen its response, however. The Labor opposition demanded that Payne, pick up the phone to her Qatari ministerial counterpart to register her protest, because “people are outraged that Australian citizens were treated in this way”.

Cross-party members of parliament’s security and intelligence committee on Thursday pulled out of a formal dinner at the Qatari ambassador’s residence in protest at the incident.

Qatar’s record on women’s rights has in the past been criticised by human rights groups. Among points of discrimination highlighted by Human Rights Watch are a penal code that “does not criminalise domestic violence or marital rape” and a personal status law that

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The BFC is launching a new project that celebrates Black British fashion and culture

uk   london   couturier designer joe casely hayford

Joe Casely-Hayford in 1997Getty Images

The British Fashion Council’s Institute of Positive Fashion has announced its second project, The Missing Thread. Created in partnership with the Black Oriented Legacy Development Agency, it will celebrate Black British fashion and culture from 1975 to today.

The project will run a series of programmed events, culminating in a major exhibition in summer 2022, which will help to reference, educate and present many Black cultural narratives and design contributions that are pivotal foundations within society.

“The fashion industry currently lacks a resource of vital Black British contributions from a cultural, design and socio-political perspective, having erased many important historical narratives,” the BFC said in a statement. “The cost of neglecting these stories is detrimental to the industry as a whole. Going forward, design knowledge and history must be taught with an appreciation and awareness of the cultural contributions of all races to the fabric of British society.”

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The project has been inspired by designer Joe Casely-Hayford and will honour his powerful legacy after he paved the way for Black designers working in the UK today and altered the course of this trajectory.

“The need for far greater accountability in our industry has become increasingly apparent over the last year,” BFC CEO Caroline Rush said. “Black fashion contributions are at the core of Britain’s reputation as a creative hub yet continue to be overlooked. We are extremely excited to work with BOLD on this project which aims at restoring and acknowledging cultural contributions to one of the UK’s most creative industries.”

This afternoon, the long-term project will kick off with a discussion on Show Studio’s Instagram account about Casely-Hayford’s career. ‘Joe Casely-Hayford: An Icon For Our Times’ will dissect the themes of identity, Britishness, heritage and the relationship between street culture and fashion.

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To find out more about the project, head this way.

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